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dino
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« on: November 21, 2005, 12:03:53 PM » |
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Case ModificationsRemoved useless excess metal to make way for radiator fitting. Corner of radiator will be resting on Play-doh. The reset CMOS switch was also relocated, and one of the two mounting points had to be filed down to allow the radiator to fit flush with the back of the case.  Frame rail cutaway for fillport (Shown upside-down)  Enlarged vents on harddrive cage (just for added ventilation) 
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dino
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2005, 12:03:53 PM » |
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SD31P Water Cooling Worklog
UPDATE - 5/04/2008
Is anyone interested in using my water cooling system with more up-to-date hardware? I'm going to be giving my SD31p system to my nephew, once I revert it to stock. Currently I have an iMac in my kitchen and I'm not sure what will end up replacing my dedicated gaming rig.
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dino
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2005, 12:09:22 PM » |
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Molding the tubingI purchased a long brass rod at home depot. Then I got some 3/8-inch OD icemaker line and put it around the brass rod, to keep the real tubing from kinking.  Then I coated it in Corn Oil so I could slip over the Tygon tubing, and baked it all at 230. In some cases it helps to put clamps on the ends of the tubes to keep them from getting stretched. You can also shape more than you need and cut off the ends afterwards.  If you used enough oil, the next step is to slide off the finished tube. If you don't use enough oil the tubes fuse together. 
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dino
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« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2005, 12:13:30 PM » |
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Part Used (in progress)DangerDen TDX Block with custom top plate 
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dino
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2005, 12:19:01 PM » |
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"Dry Pumping"Heres all of the tubing in place:  
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dino
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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2005, 12:22:58 PM » |
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Fill Her UpSince the entire system can be removed, filling up was easy. I use a syringe to slowly add Swiftech solution into the T-line. It was easy to tilt and lift components to get air bubbles to exit. Once I turned everything on, I had to top it off at least 5 times as the foam exited the system. 
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dino
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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2005, 12:30:34 PM » |
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Installing the FanThis turned out to be the hardest part. I should have bought longer screws that went through the entire fan. Even so, you have to get all of the wires in place that can't go in later. This includes 2 of the power supply wires, and the UV lighting. I turned everything upside down to make screwing it in easier.  
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dino
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« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2005, 12:35:45 PM » |
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Finally Running  The water pump voltage is controlled using a custom designed circuit which plugs into the existing PWM fan headers on the motherboard for a signal (but the power supply for power). Voltage ranges between 8 and 12 volts, which varies RPMs from 3000 to 4300 or so. The radiator fan is a 120mm JMC PWM fan that varies speed as well. All fans are controlled using Speedfan.
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sanitard
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« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2005, 04:44:15 PM » |
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Nice work! Gotta love the extra room in a P chassis
I was gonna pick up that exact rad and a SilenX 120mm fan. You say most of the noise comes from the air flowing through the fins? If that's the case, there's no way to silence it short of reducing airflow (which would reduce cooling performace)... damn.
What are your plans for GPU cooling? I'd like to see it with the case back on, see how it all works out.
Good luck!
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InnocentCriminal
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« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2005, 06:03:23 PM » |
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Nice and neat! Good stuff man  |
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dino
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« Reply #10 on: November 21, 2005, 07:45:06 PM » |
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Originally posted by: sanitard
What are your plans for GPU cooling? Look at the section on "Installing the Fan". That's the PolarFlo TT VGA block suspended in mid air. You can see it in some other shots too. The SilenX fan is just loud period. Even the 92mm version is loud just holding it outside the case. On the other hand the move a lot of air. I just ordered a PWM 120mm. 650 RPMs should fix the problem I hope, while still retaining the ability to run at 1500 or even 2400. I want to get the case back on too, but unlike may internal cutting, I want nice straight edges on the outside. I need something better than a Dremel :-) |
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DickH
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« Reply #11 on: November 21, 2005, 07:56:42 PM » |
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Good job, Nice to see this done in a "P"
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dino
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« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2005, 03:50:09 PM » |
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Results: Temperatures
Idle: 39°C (both CPU and GPU)
Load: 51°C (both CPU and GPU)
CPU is a P4 640 (3.2GHz). GPU is ATI X800XL, overclocked 5%. Temps reported by XPCTools and ATITool 0.24.
To compare this to stock cooling, the liquid in the heat pipes does not even boil until 50°, so the idle temperature was never below 50 previously.
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Fanatik
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« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2005, 12:51:07 AM » |
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HOw can your gpu and cpu temps be the same? Thats the first time I `ve ever seen that. The Gpu is almost always higher by 10 degrees.
Btw very nice tube routing. I love the way you bent the tubing. That`s so cool.
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dino
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« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2005, 11:23:08 AM » |
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Originally posted by: Fanatik
HOw can your gpu and cpu temps be the same? Thats the first time I `ve ever seen that. The Gpu is almost always higher by 10 degrees. I have no idea, I'm just posting what I have so far. I've heard something about ATI chips measuring temps on the die vs underneath is, and sometimes 20 degrees is added and sometimes it isn't necessary, etc. SOME R430s are clocked at 500+. Mine is a $200 card running at lower 420MHz. I decided to skimp until the next gen ATI cards were mainstream. BTW, the load was just the 3D test window ATI Tool displays. It's some kind of furry cube. It probably does not exercise every part of the chip. |
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digig0th
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« Reply #15 on: November 25, 2005, 03:10:03 AM » |
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Nice and clean, the only way to go.
With regard to the gpu and cpu temps being the same, That's the way it's supposed to be! If you have a watercooling rig with enough heat removal capacity, THE WHOLE SYSTEM will reach thermal equilibrium for a given load. That's why you only need 1 temperature sensor in a properly designed system. If they are not at the same temp eventually, then you are not removing enough heat fast enough. With a juicy 120 rad on a P-chassis, this is easy to achieve. I used a 120 because it not only removes more than enough heat, but serves as a resevior for "extra" fluid.
Put a PWM 120 fan on you PRIMARY fan socket and YOU HAVE COMPUTER CONTROLLED FEEDBACK of the cooling loop. If temp gets to high, the system fan kicks in or speeds up until the temps get back down again. Its a poor mans process control loop. And the secret to how The Legendary P-Chassis RAZEED has only one FAN.
Try it, You'll like it.
'Goth
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hugh
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« Reply #16 on: November 25, 2005, 08:32:58 AM » |
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what are you doing/done about the top of the case, above the radiator. have you cut a blowhole or have you just drilled hundreds of small holes?
this is very interesting indeed.
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username1234
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« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2005, 11:31:55 AM » |
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Just a note on the 120mm SilenX fan, I just got a 11dba version and the new silver design is really loud! There is an awfull buzzing that came from the motor and I m really dissapointed.
Also are there 2 SilenX companies? there seems to be one that makes normal black fans (like 2 I have with a thermistor) and has a totally different webste and logo and packaging (which i can assure you are very quiet) to the awfull silver thing I got today?
I might start a new thread on this topic.......
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sanitard
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« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2005, 02:00:29 PM » |
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Originally posted by: username1234
Also are there 2 SilenX companies? there seems to be one that makes normal black fans (like 2 I have with a thermistor) and has a totally different webste and logo and packaging (which i can assure you are very quiet) to the awfull silver thing I got today?
I might start a new thread on this topic....... Beat you to it! I only discussed it briefly though- I'd definitely contribute to that thread if you were to start it. I'd even post pretty pictures of the regular black ones. |
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dino
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« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2005, 03:03:46 PM » |
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Both silver black fans are from the same company. I received a 40x10mm fan that was black, and sent it back for the 40x20mm that is silver. The 40mm silver is absolutely silent, the way it should be. The silver 92mm and 120mm are both loud.
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jaxx
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« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2005, 10:24:39 PM » |
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amazing work.
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mhoanG
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« Reply #21 on: November 26, 2005, 09:02:44 PM » |
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what are the dimensions on that custom lucite top and how much was it :x would that top work for the sn25p too?
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dino
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« Reply #22 on: November 26, 2005, 10:34:27 PM » |
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I asked for 88mm x 73mm (center-to-center), with hole diameter of 7/32". It fits perfect and you can use the original shuttle mounting screws. All you need is 4 rubber plumbing washers to fill in a slight gap and apply pressure. Cost was $20 for a top with 2 fittings in it. Maybe you can buy it with the copper base for ~$65?
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dino
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« Reply #23 on: May 04, 2008, 07:37:11 PM » |
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Is anyone interested in using my water cooling system with more up-to-date hardware? I'm going to be giving my SD31p system to my nephew, once I revert it to stock. Currently I have an iMac in my kitchen and I'm not sure what will end up replacing my dedicated gaming rig.
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Xanonymous
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« Reply #24 on: May 06, 2008, 01:59:15 AM » |
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Would that setup fit in the SX38P2?
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