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phinix
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« Reply #50 on: July 16, 2007, 08:55:27 PM » |
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Looking good phinix. I really like your idea for the motherboard tray. Thank you Craig - from the modder like you it sounds like a real complement :-) I like it too - I'm still thinking on building same thing but from wood first just to make sure everything will find it's place inside. These holes on sides of this mobo-tray are for watercooling hoses. At the end I decided to cool CPU and GPU only, so there's enough place to put them on the side of mobo. Still working on more detailed pictures with all components. All pictures are made in 1:1 so I'm going to put all parts in real sizes to make sure they will fit - so maybe wooden prototype won't be necessary... |
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phinix
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« Reply #51 on: July 16, 2007, 09:23:37 PM » |
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“Shopping List…â€So started from sad part of the project – investments. I needed to make a list of all I’m gonna need to create that “state of artâ€;-) So far this is the list of all items (components, materials, tools, etc.) what I will have to buy. Materials:• a LOT of plexi, transparent + translucent red • Mirror self-adhesive foil• Super glue, plexi glue,• Acetone• Rubbing Compound• 10mm long black oxide M3 button cap hex head screws• sticky tape• sanding paper 400,800 and 1200• vinyl tape• chrome wire sleeveingsTools:• dremmel• jigsaw• sanding mouse + diff papers• drill + drill bits• solder• vice + clampsOther:• Toggle switches + leds + led sockets + cables • some fan controller : to mod them: Revoltec Multi-Fan Controller or Vantec Nexus NXP201 Fan-Controller or Mini Switch Bus Black Aluminum - Lian Li or Aerocool CoolWatch 4-Channel Fan Controller • USB hubs x2I just came back from B&Q. Bought some tools - they are not bought only for this project though - like I mentioned before, I bought a house, so gonna need them all to do some upgrades... Well, I'm not gonna lie - house upgrade was an excuse to buy them:) So, blue things are already bought, red - still needed. Some nice stuff:-)   
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jonath4n
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« Reply #52 on: July 18, 2007, 05:03:21 PM » |
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I'm going to be making a similar(ish) case. I just want the smallest case possible for an mATX motherboard with an ATX power supply for taking to uni and back. I'll probably be putting a core 2 duo, and x1950pro in it. I ordered some 5mm plexiglas, but got sent 4mm, so I'm getting a refund, and instead probably getting 8mm polycarbonate (about £35).
Total Dimensions: 321x271x241 WxDxH. Need: Polycarbonate, Bolts, Taps, Drill bits, power switch, brackets, PSU, Mobo, CPU, VGA card, RAM.
I want this to be done ASAP, then I'll buy a CPU after the price cuts.
I don't really want to do a work log.
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phinix
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« Reply #53 on: July 18, 2007, 05:15:53 PM » |
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I'm going to be making a similar(ish) case. I just want ... Start your own worklog - people will watch your work and you can always count on our help here in case you find some difficulties... |
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phinix
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« Reply #54 on: July 19, 2007, 12:49:43 AM » |
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OK. So this is drive cage - simple sketch... There will be some serious mountings inside for hdds, but I'll show you that later:-)  |
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phinix
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« Reply #55 on: July 19, 2007, 12:51:50 AM » |
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And this is case with basic components. I didn't have time to draw all of them, will do it later. It just shows how I'm planning to place all parts inside. As you can see I have a problem with drive cage and PSU... they both "walking on each other" ;-( I need to solve this ASAP...  UPDATE:problem solved - PSU goes above CPU, like in Sugo. There is no room on level1 and I need to put radiator 2x120 on the back wall of level1, cause level2 back wall is for GPU card and mobos I/O panel. I forgot about that rad;-) So, mobo, cards, PSU and control panel on level2, rest fo it - drive cage, pump, two 120mm fans blowing through the back wall and rad - on level1. |
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phinix
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« Reply #56 on: July 19, 2007, 11:38:14 AM » |
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Guys - what loop is better for cooling?
using 1 2x120mm rad or using 2 1x120mm rads?
First loop would be: pump-cpu-gpu-rad-pump.
Second options would be: pump-cpu-gpu-rad1-rad2-pump...
I was going for Black Ice Pro (2 120mm fan rad), but maybe would be better to use 2 rads with 1x120mm fan each?
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InnocentCriminal
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« Reply #57 on: July 19, 2007, 01:30:34 PM » |
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Nice drawings dude! Reminds me of this....  |
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Ashtefere
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« Reply #58 on: July 19, 2007, 02:15:27 PM » |
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wtf is that? o.O
-Ash
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Maturin
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« Reply #59 on: July 19, 2007, 02:43:57 PM » |
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phinix
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« Reply #60 on: July 19, 2007, 02:54:22 PM » |
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it is acrylic case from DANGER DEN - they make 4 versions - open one-Torture Rack, air box, water box and water box plus... http://www.dangerden.com/store/home.php?cat=1I'm building mine based on water box plus - their case is too big and ugly..:-) |
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Zehnsucht
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« Reply #61 on: July 19, 2007, 04:40:23 PM » |
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Guys - what loop is better for cooling?
using 1 2x120mm rad or using 2 1x120mm rads?
First loop would be: pump-cpu-gpu-rad-pump.
Second options would be: pump-cpu-gpu-rad1-rad2-pump...
I was going for Black Ice Pro (2 120mm fan rad), but maybe would be better to use 2 rads with 1x120mm fan each? From what I've read the order of connecting things in a waterloop is irrelevant. Here's a snippet from the spcr forum http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12616Does the order in which my system is plugged together matter?
NO. There are too many people who believe in the myth that cold water goes into the waterblock, and comes out as hot water, where it is cooled by the radiator and comes out again as cold water. This is WRONG. The flow rate of any respectable watercooling system is such that the water never changes temperature significantly in the time it spends in any one item. As such, the temperature differential between the hottest and coolest parts of the loop is next to ZERO, if not no more than a single degree celsius.
In fact, the ONLY order rule that exists is that the reservoir (if you have one in your loop) must be immediately before the pump.
So, when you're plugging up your watercooling system, the only thing you need to keep in mind is the physical bending of the tubing Now the question is really whether if two single rads are different than a double rad of the same size. I have no practical knowledge of the subject (but I've been researching since I'm interested in having one myself), but in theory it should be the same. I would pick one that suits the case best. |
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phinix
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« Reply #62 on: July 19, 2007, 09:31:58 PM » |
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... PSU problem solved... that's better...  Black Ice GTX 240 rad..  |
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phinix
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« Reply #63 on: July 19, 2007, 11:54:26 PM » |
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OK. I have a problem here! Who can tell me how high is the 8800GTX with watercooled full block plugged to mobo??? On picture below you can see why I'm asking... I had to raise mobo tray because of that small mounting cubes... Unfortunately having 290mm inside the case on level1 only 250mm left for all the guts - cause each cube takes 20mm from each side. I had to raise my 2x120mm rad above buttom cubes and below middle cubes, which holding mobo tray. It fits like a glove, 2mm space between. That means I have only 120mm on the level2. It can be not enough for mobo and 8800GTX installed with WC system. EK 8800GTX WC block that I was going to use has these hose fittings placed above the card - so I need to remember about that too: 120mm from the surface of mobo tray to the surface of top panel -> height of the mobo mountings+height of mobo+ height of 8800GTX plugged to the mobo + height of these WC fittings above card= possible trouble.... Anyone knows that height?  |
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phinix
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« Reply #64 on: July 20, 2007, 01:44:20 AM » |
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OK. There is another way to do it - additional mount-wall for rad. It will have some kind of duct from surface of the radiator to the hole in rear panel. It will be made of acrylic sheet, red translucent for example, same like moboo tray. It will be attached to two buttom rear cubes and will be the size of whole level1 - touching mobo tray and all other walls - left, right and the buttom of the case. I hope I explained it properly ;-) Here's sketch of this THING... Outside:  and mounted with rad inside:  Hmm... something is missing here... I KNOW!!! some kind of base of this rad-frame!!! Sth that this rad could be attached to the buttom panel with. Like a stand or sth. Then I could screw off rear panel without removing the rad... Like THIS!!!:  GOD DAMN!!!! I'M A GENIUS !!! :-) What do you think? Is this a good way to solve problem of space between rear wall and rad??? With this, lets call it "rad-frame" - I won't have to raise whole mobotray and everything will stay in place like at the beginning! I will be able to take all panels off and rad will stay on its place!! HOLLY FUCK!!! I'm on FIRE!!! :cheese: |
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nickp8
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« Reply #65 on: July 20, 2007, 10:53:50 AM » |
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pls delete What do you think? Is this a good way to solve problem of space between rear wall and rad???
With this, lets call it "rad-frame" - I won't have to raise whole mobotray and everything will stay in place like at the beginning! I will be able to take all panels off and rad will stay on its place!!
HOLLY FUCK!!! I'm on FIRE!!! :cheese: From the picture it looks like the fans from the rad touch or are very close to the back of the drives. How will you plug in the power / sata cables? Nickp. |
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nickp8
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« Reply #66 on: July 20, 2007, 10:59:49 AM » |
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pls delete
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phinix
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« Reply #67 on: July 20, 2007, 01:26:04 PM » |
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pls delete What do you think? Is this a good way to solve problem of space between rear wall and rad???
With this, lets call it "rad-frame" - I won't have to raise whole mobotray and everything will stay in place like at the beginning! I will be able to take all panels off and rad will stay on its place!!
HOLLY FUCK!!! I'm on FIRE!!! :cheese: From the picture it looks like the fans from the rad touch or are very close to the back of the drives. How will you plug in the power / sata cables? Nickp. ...and the answer iiisssssss......  Black Ice GTX is 54mm thick, PRO II version - 25mm (last picture shows Pro version). Pro gives 54mm gap - I need to think about the future - todays dvds have 170mm length, but new blue ray recorders have 200mm. That gives 24mm for cables - 90degree sata of course. That gap between drive cage and fans is.. how do you say... intentional (?) - fans will take hot air from hdds. |
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phinix
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« Reply #68 on: August 01, 2007, 02:13:45 PM » |
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I had to change radiator - I cannot get Black ICE PROC versin anywhere is UK... :-( I will probably get Swiftech MCR-220 instead... http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-QP.asp#specificationsIt is thicker than PRO - has 34mm, so I'll have about 45mm left...  |
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hugh
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« Reply #69 on: August 01, 2007, 03:12:34 PM » |
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don't know if you've already mentioned but how're you mounting the psu? will there be some supports for the end in the middle of the case such as an acrylic ledge along the case wall and then a hanging support? as that will put a HUGE amount of strain on the acrylic and i wouldn't want that snapping off and falling on the goodies
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phinix
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« Reply #70 on: August 01, 2007, 03:41:31 PM » |
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don't know if you've already mentioned but how're you mounting the psu? will there be some supports for the end in the middle of the case such as an acrylic ledge along the case wall and then a hanging support? as that will put a HUGE amount of strain on the acrylic and i wouldn't want that snapping off and falling on the goodies HUGH, you're reading in my mind:) I noticed that 2 days ago:) didn;t thought it will be a problem. BUT - yes it might be - I think I will create acrylic "hangings" - some kind of two brackets that will keep ot srewed to top panel. I also decided to create some kind of frame for level 1 - it will be some square rods between mounting cubes and it will give additional support to mobo base. About that PSU - I HOPE that frames will be enough to keep it up... I'm still thinking on creating whole new arcylic box for PSU, just to make it look nicer than PSU original cover. It could make it less heavy and easier to mount it to the top panel. I will see that when when actually start building this beauty. I'm going for 2 weeks of holiday now, when I come back on 21st August, I'm gonna have to prepare to moving out to a new home - day of entry 30th august. Then I'm do some upgrades inside the house, order some nice big shed to my garden, where all that state of art will be built:)) But, I'm gathering money for all that sweet stuff, so far I got 200 Pounds and all tools I'm gonna need. 100 more and I start order all the things. Actually I will order radiator today - finally it will be Swiftech 220 - because I cannot find Black ICe PRO in UK - its just imposible to get it now...:-( Hopefuly Swiftech will do the job... it's 10mm thicker, that should be a plus. |
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nickp8
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« Reply #71 on: August 01, 2007, 08:08:42 PM » |
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Have you asked coolercasesuk if they can get you the rad? They import danger den stuff. I have just finished a build in a Danger Den Air Box acrylic case. I hear there should be MATX version of their Acrylic Cube cases soon.  Nickp. |
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phinix
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« Reply #72 on: August 01, 2007, 09:50:56 PM » |
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Have you asked coolercasesuk if they can get you the rad? They import danger den stuff. I have just finished a build in a Danger Den Air Box acrylic case. I hear there should be MATX version of their Acrylic Cube cases soon. Nickp. Do you know when? |
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nickp8
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« Reply #73 on: August 01, 2007, 10:02:32 PM » |
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phinix
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« Reply #74 on: August 02, 2007, 03:08:30 PM » |
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 UPDATE: 02/08/07
.OK, Swiftech MCR-220-QP radiator ordered... Now it's time choose right fans :grrr: This is that additional frame structure I mentioned before - it will be made of acrylic square rads 20mm thick, same lke that mounting cubes. It will add some stability and keep level2 more firmly.. I think..  |
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